PHETCHABURI Tuesday 20 October
Pranee made us Jok(e) Soup for an early breakfast and gave us water to take and kluay (banana) Lawn (hawn?) to eat on the journey before leaving for work. Nothing was too much for her.
We left just after Wat having arranged to return on 12 November on our way home ostensibly so he could talk some more English - like me he loved to try to speak a foreign language.
I had identified the Southern Bus Station (air conditioned buses) on our map but when we arrived by #81 we found the site had changed to the New Southern Terminal for all types of bus. As usual we were shown where to get off the #41 and soon found the a/c bus to Phetchaburi at a cost of 65B each including a free cold drink. The journey took 2.5 hours. Dismounting with my heavy back sack I twisted ankle ever suspect following a rugby foul injury at university. This time it was better a few days later when I just felt sick at the thought of what I might have done to our holiday.
A stall holder shouted and pointed the way to the Hotel Chom Klao which we found with some difficulty by the river. There is no obvious entrance hall to the cheaper hotels, though with four floors it was not small. We were shown a double room with bathroom which was OK dingy with not over clean bed linen, but we soon settled in, glad to be on our own and delighted with the tenderness will still felt for each other.
That evening we ate in a large Chinese restaurant with tables in the garden as well, full of Thais. Everyone was cooking their own meals in a large round pot on each table. I could not determine what to order but we ended up with boiled rice and a hot lemon grass fish stew - nice, but looking around not what we should have eaten. It was an excellent restaurant and later developed into karaoke singing into a microphone. I regretted not taking my personalised Thai dictionary to further expand my vocabulary.
Wednesday 21 October HUA HIN
At 8:30 am Joan got me out walking to the Hill Palace, museum and Petchaburi wat (temple) on the hill.
There were magnificent views of the city but by 11:30 it was very hot and escaping the sun was the priority so we took a bus to Hua Hin where we spent the next three nights in a guest house not mentioned in the Lonely Planet (LP). We had correctly avoided the bicycle touts who wanted us to take a beach hut for 350B/night and chosen a fine place Ban Kap Kanokporn for 200B with fan very close to the prestigious Railway Hotel and the beach, but one where it seemed all the visitors were of Thai nationality. We collapsed into bed.
Later had a stroll on the beach where we watched a group of young Thais catching crabs caught at the bottom of their breathing holes in the firm sand. For dinner we to ate on the night market - probably our first such venture - for although at first wary of the language barrier we soon realised that each of the many stalls specialised in just one or two dishes, in night markets you choose the stall with the food which you fancy most at the time.
Thursday 22 October
Up early and took our malaria tablets - a bad mistake on an empty stomach. Took an English breakfast boiled egg, toast and coffee and I felt sick but Joan realised it was the after effect of those tablets.
On the beach by 9 am accepted deck chairs and umbrellas for 40B before finding because they were in a restaurant area they are free if you eat. The area under umbrellas was mostly taken up by Thais who bathed (lay) in the sea in full clothes to cool off.
As I wrote a Thai family of three was sitting (bathing) on the water edges for a full half hour. In fact I found the water too warm for preference but swimming was still pleasant though it was necessary to look out for rocks.
It couldn't have been too bad as I record taking three swims before eating a magnificent meal, eight large jumbo prawns stewed with noodles and a large plateful of squid pla meuak.
The fishing boats left the pier and anchored in the bay a, probably because the following day was the King's Birthday. We watched them clean the landed fish and cover the catch with ice for box after box. The strong boxes were then hurled onto the boats and stacked waiting for the next catch. The sailors all wore hats pulled down over their ears to protect their hair, some wore full balaclava masks from which only ear and mouth protruded.
Visibility was good, showing off the colours of the boats and the peaky hills in the background. Fine horses were available to ride on the beach, the owners dug holes in the sand with their boats to hide any droppings. A couple of riders posed for pictures, then swapped over with their partners.
Later on as we walked along the beach we discovered many groups clearly on package holidays, most English of German, totally different to the Thai crowds in town or under our umbrellas.
Night market for a dinner of mussel omelette, desert of ice cream and fruits, then a fresh pineapple - all for less than 30B.
Friday 23 October The King's Birthday
Hearing a drum Joan got me out of bed for what she imagined would be a big happening at 8 am when the flag is raised daily and the anthem played - a similar ceremony occurs at 6 pm when the flag is taken. All military establishments and schools observe this ceremony and the traffic stops for an hour in the vicinity of military barracks. Hua Hin is however a holiday town and the only fuss we ran into was a few boys celebrating who greeted Joan teasingly and made for a good photograph. I wished I'd been allowed to sleep on.
Beach around 11 am I had crab for lunch and Joan chose barbecued prawns. There were more people on the beach and more activity on the horses but unfortunately the cloudy day turned to heavy warm rain by 4 pm and got soaked through on the short walk to our GH. Night market again for dinner again under £1 I note indicating the exchange rate at the time was around £1 = 30 bhat.
We walked past the Train Station to enquire about trains and saw another group of backpackers and learned that the booking office opened at 8:30 am the next day and decided on the 11:45 to Chumphon.
CHUMPHON on the east coast 24 October, boats to Ko Tao north of the better known Ko Samui
We had a leisurely Thai breakfast in town for 70B - far poorer value than night markets! The train proved a great way to travel for many hours, nearly as cheap as a bus, lots of room, great views the mountains of Burma on one side and the sea on the other, food sellers constantly seeing to your needs, in future visits we took the overnight train direct from Bangkok to Trang. Plenty of time to observe the Thais, the four directly opposite were all monks who seemed to live isolated lives and se aid little to each other . Several family groups were a strong contrast with the usual sprinkling of very attractive women to keep me happy. The upper class seem to be heavily made up with false eyebrows giving an impression of Thai dancers.
Lots of water with highly coloured birds, wading, flying or perched on the electricity wires. Coconut was obviously the main crop, many passing trains had covered wagons which Joan noted seeing loaded with coconuts, bananas and other tree fruit. There were green oases of paddy fields, others of scrub with lying water and buffalo grazing
On arrival we asked for the Nam Tai. another Chinese hotel and were driven there by cycle rickshaw for 20B, the driver was obviously very pleased with his fare. The very pleasant Chinese owner was using his abacus as we arrived. We ate fabulously at the stall opposite, probably the best meal yet. A hot soup of fish, shrimp, lemon grass and rice followed by sweets of a variety of crystallised fruits under crushed ice. Excellent value for 45B. There were many other fine looking dishes being cooked and eaten but our choice was popular.
25 October RANONG, on the west coast opposite the southern tip of Burma
Everyone is so helpful I note as we go to catch the bus at 7 am. I saw two friendly tourists with rucksacks who waved. Are they the only others in town?
The journey that morning had taken us onto the mountains and into the clouds as we crossed east to west across the southern spine of Thailand. The scenery was almost European with a preponderance of deciduous trees but the give away was the Thai style wooden buildings and huge thatched sheds which were chicken farms - so much more attractive than our concrete blocks and corrugated roofs, not that the chickens would note the difference.
We took a songthaew to the large port at Sathan Pla where a long section of the colourful river/sea side had sheds for offloading, processing into fish meal and boxing and sorting. In the centre a slip led down to the waters edge where a dozen long tailed boats plied their trade. We were offered an hours trip for 100B but we were happy to watch the local activity. A fat lady loaded a boat up with hardware, plastic buckets, cups, cookers etc presumably destined for export to Burma clearly visible h just 50 yards away. The Burmese side too was built up but didn't seem so active. All the boats and there was a huge number all flew Thai and Burmese flags.
In terms of a narrow piece of water separating it from Burma this could be compared with Mae Sot but here there were no tourists and because of it no cross border trade such as jewelry and trinkets.
The props on the long tailed boats looked lethal as they swung from side to side during manoeuvers. Huge numbers of people were actively involved in sorting the various types of fish and shell fish, old fishing methods keep large numbers of fishermen and their wives busy. Britain used to be full of fish based activity until modern methods, or modern pollution reduced or virtually eliminated our North Sea fishing Industry.
The fish meal plant had several steam processing vessels, the produce being moved up and down by rotating screw conveyors. Sawdust from a local wood saw mill was used as fuel for the boilers with some logs. The electrics were manufactured in Taiwan. Finally the product was bagged and loaded onto lorries
We had a big room in the Sin Ranong but found nowhere interesting to eat so again settled for the night market. We visited a temple where I conversed with a Chinese man in Thai using my dictionary. My main problem is pronunciation.
Monday 26 October PHANG-NGA
We had another delicious breakfast whilst waiting for the 8:30 bus for Krabi, spicy chicken soup with egg and pepper but not too hot for Joan, two fried eggs with tomato and cucumber slices. The owner's mother who spoke good English was very friendly and appreciative of my attempts to speak Thai. The journey was again almost European so was the rain which fell steadily throughout. Joan noticed that the trees were being tapped, rubber is an important product in this area but these trees looked like Silver Birch, with about 4 feet of the bark cut in a downwards spiral. The collecting cup were at a low level for easy access. Joan also spotted naturally coloured mats and we presumed these were rubber. In spite of a puncture we stayed at Phang Gna just after 1 pm.
We had just settled for a nice room with toilet for 100B in the Thawisut Hotel when we met Sayan who offered us a four hour boat trip to his Muslim island for 100B or 250B each including a night's stay at his house. We agreed to stay on the island tomorrow night. Phang Nga was not yet a by any means a tourist town but with plenty of potential. That evening we walked 5km towards the dock and discovered a fabulous park, which was still being extended and developed. It was equiped with a giant post shaped cliff with a walk through cave with stalactites and small pools.
The path through the cave had been excellently done with paved sections and little bridges over the pools. Elsewhere it was a more conventional park with beautiful trees and gardens. (Writing this up 25 years later I can't help but wonder if it is as magical.)
That night we ate well from a wide menu at a busy restaurant with a wholly Thai clientel, having learned that the night n market nearer to the hotel over charged 'farangs'.
Tuesday 27 October Ko Panyi (a Muslim island)
We set out by boat for a trip which was spoilt by rain, cloud and poor visibility. We would gladly do it again in better weather, even so we went through cliff caves and visited the so called James Bond Island.
Ko Panyi itself was packed with tourists, no doubt a penalty for being close to Phuket, many of the houses doubling as shops to sell clothes and souvenirs.
Luckily the atmosphere changed totally, now dominated by the sorting fish catches of small fish, squid and shrimps whist other houses operated as take away providers for other residents. However we didn't feel at all welcome at Sayan's house, ignored would be the right expression. At a dinner I spoke Thai to the others customers quite successfully, perhaps Sayan had heard because when he came back to the house he invited us to accompany him to a local coffee shop. The atmosphere was very pleasant, if all male, it served the coffee and crisp potato pancakes and sweet potato sweets which looked like Turkish Delight. There was lots of talk and there was the option of watching TV, in fact it seemed to me to satisfy the function of the British pub except that there was no alcohol and no women.
Sayan encouraged and helped me to speak Thai, though his English was fluent. He told us the island was originally inhabited by just five families 200 years ago with the water coming from bore holes. It had expanded by breeding and because it had good supplies of fish. Earlier a 25 year old waitress claimed to have 8 children by a variety of fathers but they were from Phuket not Panyi.
Sayan had been to secondary school at Pang Gna to the age of 19 but he didn't go on to university. At 22 he had the idea of inviting travellers he had met in the park for boat trips at 250B for two, then added the overnight idea at 200B each which nine years later, at 29, he increased to 250B each. He said he liked travellers but didn't want anything to do with the run of mill tourists, disparaging the effect their money was having on the island. It was obviously more lucrative to deal with tourists rather than to fish for a living but he claimed 80% off the males were still fishermen.
28 October am
Sayan's wife served us a good help yourself breakfast of coffee, fresh bread and doughnuts - a style we had had previously in Rangon.
We travelled back to via the ferry (a long tailed boat) to the mainland and met and conversed in Thai to a very nice Thai 'Escourt' Polius who offered to drive us to Krabi but first he would be going west to Phuket so we declined. Nevertheless he insisted on driving us 5km out of his way so we could pick up our rucksacks at Hotel Tawisut.
Pranee made us Jok(e) Soup for an early breakfast and gave us water to take and kluay (banana) Lawn (hawn?) to eat on the journey before leaving for work. Nothing was too much for her.
We left just after Wat having arranged to return on 12 November on our way home ostensibly so he could talk some more English - like me he loved to try to speak a foreign language.
I had identified the Southern Bus Station (air conditioned buses) on our map but when we arrived by #81 we found the site had changed to the New Southern Terminal for all types of bus. As usual we were shown where to get off the #41 and soon found the a/c bus to Phetchaburi at a cost of 65B each including a free cold drink. The journey took 2.5 hours. Dismounting with my heavy back sack I twisted ankle ever suspect following a rugby foul injury at university. This time it was better a few days later when I just felt sick at the thought of what I might have done to our holiday.
A stall holder shouted and pointed the way to the Hotel Chom Klao which we found with some difficulty by the river. There is no obvious entrance hall to the cheaper hotels, though with four floors it was not small. We were shown a double room with bathroom which was OK dingy with not over clean bed linen, but we soon settled in, glad to be on our own and delighted with the tenderness will still felt for each other.
That evening we ate in a large Chinese restaurant with tables in the garden as well, full of Thais. Everyone was cooking their own meals in a large round pot on each table. I could not determine what to order but we ended up with boiled rice and a hot lemon grass fish stew - nice, but looking around not what we should have eaten. It was an excellent restaurant and later developed into karaoke singing into a microphone. I regretted not taking my personalised Thai dictionary to further expand my vocabulary.
Wednesday 21 October HUA HIN
At 8:30 am Joan got me out walking to the Hill Palace, museum and Petchaburi wat (temple) on the hill.
 |
| PETCHA BURI TEMPLE |
Later had a stroll on the beach where we watched a group of young Thais catching crabs caught at the bottom of their breathing holes in the firm sand. For dinner we to ate on the night market - probably our first such venture - for although at first wary of the language barrier we soon realised that each of the many stalls specialised in just one or two dishes, in night markets you choose the stall with the food which you fancy most at the time.
Thursday 22 October
Up early and took our malaria tablets - a bad mistake on an empty stomach. Took an English breakfast boiled egg, toast and coffee and I felt sick but Joan realised it was the after effect of those tablets.
 |
| EATING LUNCH at HUA HIN |
 |
| BATHING IN FULL CLOTHES at HUA HIN |
 |
| BEACH HUTS FOR HIRE at HUA HIN |
The fishing boats left the pier and anchored in the bay a, probably because the following day was the King's Birthday. We watched them clean the landed fish and cover the catch with ice for box after box. The strong boxes were then hurled onto the boats and stacked waiting for the next catch. The sailors all wore hats pulled down over their ears to protect their hair, some wore full balaclava masks from which only ear and mouth protruded.
Visibility was good, showing off the colours of the boats and the peaky hills in the background. Fine horses were available to ride on the beach, the owners dug holes in the sand with their boats to hide any droppings. A couple of riders posed for pictures, then swapped over with their partners.
Later on as we walked along the beach we discovered many groups clearly on package holidays, most English of German, totally different to the Thai crowds in town or under our umbrellas.
Night market for a dinner of mussel omelette, desert of ice cream and fruits, then a fresh pineapple - all for less than 30B.
Friday 23 October The King's Birthday
Hearing a drum Joan got me out of bed for what she imagined would be a big happening at 8 am when the flag is raised daily and the anthem played - a similar ceremony occurs at 6 pm when the flag is taken. All military establishments and schools observe this ceremony and the traffic stops for an hour in the vicinity of military barracks. Hua Hin is however a holiday town and the only fuss we ran into was a few boys celebrating who greeted Joan teasingly and made for a good photograph. I wished I'd been allowed to sleep on.
 |
| BOYS CELEBRATING KING'S BIRTHDAY at HUA HIN |
 |
| HUA HIN RAILWAY STATION |
CHUMPHON on the east coast 24 October, boats to Ko Tao north of the better known Ko Samui
We had a leisurely Thai breakfast in town for 70B - far poorer value than night markets! The train proved a great way to travel for many hours, nearly as cheap as a bus, lots of room, great views the mountains of Burma on one side and the sea on the other, food sellers constantly seeing to your needs, in future visits we took the overnight train direct from Bangkok to Trang. Plenty of time to observe the Thais, the four directly opposite were all monks who seemed to live isolated lives and se aid little to each other . Several family groups were a strong contrast with the usual sprinkling of very attractive women to keep me happy. The upper class seem to be heavily made up with false eyebrows giving an impression of Thai dancers.
Lots of water with highly coloured birds, wading, flying or perched on the electricity wires. Coconut was obviously the main crop, many passing trains had covered wagons which Joan noted seeing loaded with coconuts, bananas and other tree fruit. There were green oases of paddy fields, others of scrub with lying water and buffalo grazing
On arrival we asked for the Nam Tai. another Chinese hotel and were driven there by cycle rickshaw for 20B, the driver was obviously very pleased with his fare. The very pleasant Chinese owner was using his abacus as we arrived. We ate fabulously at the stall opposite, probably the best meal yet. A hot soup of fish, shrimp, lemon grass and rice followed by sweets of a variety of crystallised fruits under crushed ice. Excellent value for 45B. There were many other fine looking dishes being cooked and eaten but our choice was popular.
25 October RANONG, on the west coast opposite the southern tip of Burma
Everyone is so helpful I note as we go to catch the bus at 7 am. I saw two friendly tourists with rucksacks who waved. Are they the only others in town?
The journey that morning had taken us onto the mountains and into the clouds as we crossed east to west across the southern spine of Thailand. The scenery was almost European with a preponderance of deciduous trees but the give away was the Thai style wooden buildings and huge thatched sheds which were chicken farms - so much more attractive than our concrete blocks and corrugated roofs, not that the chickens would note the difference.
 |
| PORT at SATHAN PLA |
We took a songthaew to the large port at Sathan Pla where a long section of the colourful river/sea side had sheds for offloading, processing into fish meal and boxing and sorting. In the centre a slip led down to the waters edge where a dozen long tailed boats plied their trade. We were offered an hours trip for 100B but we were happy to watch the local activity. A fat lady loaded a boat up with hardware, plastic buckets, cups, cookers etc presumably destined for export to Burma clearly visible h just 50 yards away. The Burmese side too was built up but didn't seem so active. All the boats and there was a huge number all flew Thai and Burmese flags.
 |
| SATHAN PLA THIS SIDE - BURMA ON OTHER BANK |
The props on the long tailed boats looked lethal as they swung from side to side during manoeuvers. Huge numbers of people were actively involved in sorting the various types of fish and shell fish, old fishing methods keep large numbers of fishermen and their wives busy. Britain used to be full of fish based activity until modern methods, or modern pollution reduced or virtually eliminated our North Sea fishing Industry.
 |
| SORTING CATCH at SATHAN PLA |
We had a big room in the Sin Ranong but found nowhere interesting to eat so again settled for the night market. We visited a temple where I conversed with a Chinese man in Thai using my dictionary. My main problem is pronunciation.
Monday 26 October PHANG-NGA
We had another delicious breakfast whilst waiting for the 8:30 bus for Krabi, spicy chicken soup with egg and pepper but not too hot for Joan, two fried eggs with tomato and cucumber slices. The owner's mother who spoke good English was very friendly and appreciative of my attempts to speak Thai. The journey was again almost European so was the rain which fell steadily throughout. Joan noticed that the trees were being tapped, rubber is an important product in this area but these trees looked like Silver Birch, with about 4 feet of the bark cut in a downwards spiral. The collecting cup were at a low level for easy access. Joan also spotted naturally coloured mats and we presumed these were rubber. In spite of a puncture we stayed at Phang Gna just after 1 pm.
We had just settled for a nice room with toilet for 100B in the Thawisut Hotel when we met Sayan who offered us a four hour boat trip to his Muslim island for 100B or 250B each including a night's stay at his house. We agreed to stay on the island tomorrow night. Phang Nga was not yet a by any means a tourist town but with plenty of potential. That evening we walked 5km towards the dock and discovered a fabulous park, which was still being extended and developed. It was equiped with a giant post shaped cliff with a walk through cave with stalactites and small pools.
 |
| CAVES at PHANG NGA |
That night we ate well from a wide menu at a busy restaurant with a wholly Thai clientel, having learned that the night n market nearer to the hotel over charged 'farangs'.
Tuesday 27 October Ko Panyi (a Muslim island)
We set out by boat for a trip which was spoilt by rain, cloud and poor visibility. We would gladly do it again in better weather, even so we went through cliff caves and visited the so called James Bond Island.
 |
| JAMES BOND ISLAND |
 |
| MUSLIM ISLAND of KO PANYI |
Sayan encouraged and helped me to speak Thai, though his English was fluent. He told us the island was originally inhabited by just five families 200 years ago with the water coming from bore holes. It had expanded by breeding and because it had good supplies of fish. Earlier a 25 year old waitress claimed to have 8 children by a variety of fathers but they were from Phuket not Panyi.
Sayan had been to secondary school at Pang Gna to the age of 19 but he didn't go on to university. At 22 he had the idea of inviting travellers he had met in the park for boat trips at 250B for two, then added the overnight idea at 200B each which nine years later, at 29, he increased to 250B each. He said he liked travellers but didn't want anything to do with the run of mill tourists, disparaging the effect their money was having on the island. It was obviously more lucrative to deal with tourists rather than to fish for a living but he claimed 80% off the males were still fishermen.
28 October am
Sayan's wife served us a good help yourself breakfast of coffee, fresh bread and doughnuts - a style we had had previously in Rangon.
 |
| DONUTS FOR BREAKFAST at KO PANYI |
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